Nuts about Whole Foods

In a week filled with more economic doom and gloom it was with more than a degree of trepidation that I visited the new WholeFoods Market in Giffnock, Glasgow, on its first day. Just how is a shop, known for being extortionate because of the high quality of organic produce they are offering, going to survive in the middle of a recession?

Some of you may remember me writing something similar when Waitrose opened. It has indeed survived the first few months but it’s dead whenever I go in and the people who are there don’t appear to be buying very much. As much as I enjoy shopping there, more for convenience than anything else, it isn’t really offering much more than the other big supermarkets (the one exception being the deli). This week saw yet another report revealing the Scots are spending less on basic food items, but seem to still be indulging in treats from time to time. It was also reported that sales of organic (ie probably pricey) baby food were on the rise. Yet, newspapers also revealed the seasonal testing results of various chefs who were claiming budget buys of Christmas foods such as mince pies and smoked salmon were trouncing luxury brands in the test stakes. This seemed to suggest we’re all seeking out the cheapest possible produce at the moment, whether for Christmas or just day to day.

So which is it? Are we just eating less and still buying the things we like? Or are we swapping our Green & Blacks for a block of Scotbloc? I would love to think the answer lies in WholeFoods. I don’t mean everyone should start doing their weekly shop there but I was so blown away by everything about the store that I came away feeling that they may just change the way we all think about food and shopping. Before you step in to the store, the message is loud and clear – crates of squashes of every shape and colour were displayed outside. That makes you feel good. A few steps inside and an array of potatoes that will make a no-carb obsessive ditch the diet immediately.

The feel of the place is like an indoor farmer’s market. Anyone who has visited the fabulous Borough Market in London will feel at home instantly. As well as the amazing array of produce on offer, there are things for sale I’ve simply never seen in Scotland. Freshly churned nut butters (cashew, almond and peanut), flavoured salts, at least a dozen varieties of chilli, wine sold in refillable wine bottles and chocolate with pink peppercorns. The cheese counter looks like something you would see in France or Italy and I came home with a reasonably priced cheese from Holland – I chose it simply because I’ve really only ever seen Edam and Gouda on sale here. And this is the point about the company – you’ve simply never seen anything like it in Scotland. Add to that their commitment to local producers who supply a huge range from chocolate to shower gel , their involvement in community matters and pledges to reduce food waste (many store cupboard items can be bought loose in bags), what’s not to like?

Usually with a firm, it’s at this point where the bubble bursts and you that they are dreadful to work for. Well, the staff couldn’t be happier and sing the praises of the company and their bosses. Will this be enough to convince people to shop here? It will take a commitment in both time and money from people to make it work. And so it comes to the crunch – just how expensive is it? Pretty dear for a lot of things. But there were also many things I buy every week (whole chicken, oatcakes) that were no expensive than Waitrose or Sainsbury. I picked up a piece of fresh fish for about £3 and some lovely caramelised almonds for £2.99. I did shell out on the refillable wine bottle which will only be worth doing if the wine is very nice to drink (as yet it is unopened).

But a friend I bumped into at the store summed it up. He said it the store makes you realise just how manipulated and conned we have been by supermarkets who, for so long have told us we want it cheap, no matter the compromise on quality or ethics. Visiting a shop like this makes you want to rearrange your time just enough that you can find an extra hour in the week to seek out some really good food which is a joy to buy. That’s all it really takes. As someone else in the shop said, WholeFoods won’t survive from the odd customer popping in to buy a gift or from the very wealthy shopping for a whole dinner party – it’s the people who care about the food who will visit regularly and spend a few pounds that will keep the place going.

And so, eventually, to this week’s recipe. I first got hooked on salmon with Asian spice many, many years ago, not long after Stravaigin opened in Glasgow. There, I had a spiced salmon on satay noodles and I’ve loved the mix of the fish with the Asian flavours ever since.

I’m using two things I’d never seen before – freshly churned cashew butter and lemon scented salt flakes. It’s scarcely a recipe – just a nice plate of food that comes together when you have delicious things you enjoyed buying sitting in the kitchen. If you don’t have accesss to lemon salt, zest a lemon and grind it in a pestle & mortar with a teaspoon of salt flakes. If you don’t have cashew butter, tahini is not a bad substitute.

Lemon salt-crusted salmon with chilli greens and cashew dressing

Serves two

Two thick pieces of salmon, fillet or steaks

Lemon salt and pepper

A little oil

Whatever greens you fancy – broccoli, green beans, spring onion, kale are all good

Half a chopped chilli

Sesame oil 2tbsp

Cashew butter dressing – 2tbsp cashew butter, tbsp hot water, squeeze of lime, 2tbsp natural yogurt, salt and pepper

Sprinkle the salt and pepper on the salmon generously. Drizzle over a little oil – no more than a couple of tsps. Place in the oven, uncovered, for about 20mins at 170C.

Mix the cashew butter with the water to loosen it a little. Add the other ingredients and stir gently – don’t overwork or it becomes clay-like. Set aside.

Remove the salmon and cover with foil. Blanch your veggies for a couple of minutes and run under cold water. Heat a little oil in a pan and gently fry the chilli. Tip in the greens and cook until just charred. Drizzle with a little sesame oil. Serve the salmon with the greens and a dollop of the dressing.

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